Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and travelers equally celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, UNESCO honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a select list of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it enters a global network of more than four hundred urban centers across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "stands as proof of its profound gastronomic legacy and lively gastronomic culture," according to a official from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of 70 cities around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this time-honored city arrives as hardly a shock to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, chaotic, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is finally in the global gaze for what has always defined its essence: an profound passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a continued discussion from waking up until going to bed in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and elevated to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of culinary innovations, merging Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was created to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights seasonal produce but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on every corner, there are small establishments and stalls – hidden gems that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, served in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a simple joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and complicated. The artisan beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but say that their younger generation are reluctant to master the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will encourage more people globally to explore these stories and travel to the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
